Sometimes when you’re on holiday you want to stay longer but imagine living in a tourist destination all year round.
Ayia Napa. What image do these two words conjure? Whether it’s a stunning coastline, water sports or lively nightlife, it is an undeniable hotspot for tourists and Cypriots alike. Ayia Napa has long been a profitable mecca for clubbing tourism. It’s a playground for the 18 to 30 crowds with its endless sunshine, enticing turquoise waters and decadent party vibe. Throughout August, the east coast is also a draw for Cypriots in search of a weekend escape from the island’s sun baked cities. But what is it like when the summer is over?
“When you finish work you feel like every day you’re on vacation. I feel like a tourist but I’m not,” enthuses Emil Georgia. He is a Bulgarian chef who works at Othello restaurant in Ayia Napa and lives in the town all year long. Emil relishes the carefree lifestyle and buzz of tourists, “it’s better when there are more people,” he grins.
Chris Topliss, a musician, club DJ, Napa Live promoter and the owner of Live Lounge in Ayia Napa, agrees that the visitors create the area’s distinctive vibe. “I like that there’s people from all over Europe. You’re exposed to all nationalities here. We have Brits, Scandinavians, Russians and people from the Middle East coming on holiday here.”
Chris has lived in the area for 10 years and testifies to its enduring appeal, “Napa’s been good to me. I’d never say anything negative about it. You can walk out at any time of the day or night and get anything you want. Everything’s always open. You can have people on balconies partying until the early hours but that’s never bothered me. There are a lot of people so if you’re looking for an early night and peace and quiet you’re not going to get it here. I like it. I guess you have to be a people person to like it,” he admits.
It’s not only the bars, restaurants and clubs which prosper throughout the summer. Dive schools, boat yards, hotels, spas and even pharmacies can appreciate the thriving trade brought by Cypriot and overseas tourists. The work while demanding and relentless during these peak months often keeps businesses afloat during the quiet winter season.
“A huge percentage of business is tourists. We go to the hotels and do pool demonstrations. We get a lot of repeat customers who come back to us all the time,” says Gary Connor, the owner of Divers Unlimited in Protaras. He moved with his wife and two grown up children to Cyprus in 2004 from Kent.
Gary insists that despite the high levels of tourism it is also possible to achieve a sense of community and experience authentic Cyprus on the coast. “I always came here on holiday and always planned to retire here. I live in Paralimni while the shop is in Protaras so I don’t get affected by the tourists. I want to live where the Cypriots live. I don’t want a different neighbour every two weeks. I came to Cyprus for a change of life,” he says.
But the region’s popularity with tourists can interrupt the slow pace so many expats crave and relocate to the region for. Inevitably, the bustle causes a strain on resources and infrastructure during the summer for locals. Stacey Christofides, a self employed nail technician and hot stone therapist from Bath, has spent 16 years living in Cyprus and is the mother of three children here. Although she loves her hometown, she reveals that she actually dreads the summer season.
“Peak season in this area is the worst time of year, the reason being in July it’s not so much the tourists as the Nicosians who have their holidays and all come down. The road system is not equipped for that level of traffic or busyness. Every Sunday throughout the summer we don’t go anywhere because the shops and beach would take me two hours to get to. The summer is the worst time for me,” she explains.
Despite these difficulties, Stacey wouldn’t dream of living anywhere else and says that the rest of the year makes up for the inconvenience of the summer, although she adds, “I do like the buzz of it, the place is alive. With my neighbours, there is music and barbecues and everything is left open.”
Stacey’s street is almost entirely Cypriot and her children attend Cypriot schools. The community she is a part of makes it feel like more than just a holiday town to her.
“I stayed here because it’s where I first came to. The people I met, we all stayed, got married had kids and we grew up together. For me as a mother, life is already in a routine, school, work – it’s normal life. It’s an idyllic area to live. On a nice sunny day you can go on a beautiful coastal walk. Your house is more open, people come round, walk in, put the kettle on before you do. Here you’re always a little bit in holiday mode. It’s a relaxed, laid back way of life,” she smiles.
While the local residents are overwhelmed by the choice of activity to fill their summer days, it can be a struggle to keep the children entertained during the winter months.
Once the tourist season ends, the region is almost unrecognisable. Anyone who has been to central Ayia Napa will be struck by its eerie film set quality. Almost everywhere is boarded up or closed. Ayia Napa itself resembles a ghost town.
Emil complains, “the winter is boring. The restaurant is open and only about three other places. I do some sport, go to the gym. There are not so many people here. At the end of season everybody’s tired.”
Chris concedes, “It’s odd to live in Napa without being next to tourists in peak season.” He tends to split his time between Cyprus and the UK or goes on tour with his band during the four month lull.
“I have to prepare for Napa Live and tour with my band so it’s a mad rush to get open for May 1 every summer. It can be full on. When you’re working in the summer you don’t get to spend a lot of time writing. I’m looking forward to being a musician again for a bit.”
Gary’s dive shop closes during the winter giving him a chance to relax and reap the rewards of the summer. “By November you just want to rest anyway,” he says. “It’s a hectic time, you need a holiday. What I like about the winter is it gives you the opportunity to catch up with everybody. You see people in the summer but no one has got the time to socialise. The biggest problem is that no one has any money coming in, in the winter. We have barbecues with friends, go round their houses. It doesn’t have to be expensive.”
The satisfied resident grins broadly, “I’d rather be here where I don’t earn the money of England but I wake up in sunshine and look forward to going to work.”